Ten stages of installation

It is important to us that you have the best experience when deciding on your wooden kitchen worktops. So we, Norfolk Oak have come up with some easy tips and tricks to help you along when it comes to installing…

You will need:
–          Rags/ old cloth
–          Oil
–          Warm Storage (if applicable)
–          Sand paper /electric sander
–          Extra helping hand

1. If the worktop needs storing, give our office to call and we shall delay the delivery, or you can ensure it will be stored in a flat, warm and dry atmosphere. Just like Floor planks, you will need to oil them immediately, 24 hours being the limit.

2. If you have had your wooden worktop pre-oiled by us you can skip this step:

Although they come to you well sanded, they need a final going over with a finer paper. Firstly put on some clothes that you do not mind getting dirty. It is important that you work with the grain, otherwise scratches will show. An electric sander is optional or sanding by hand, whatever your preference. Start with a 150 grit and sand down the entire worktop including the exposed edges. The repeat with a 180 grit. Once you’re happy with the results then it is time to oil.

wooden worktop oiling

3. When oiling, it is suggested that it is done in a warm, dry environment. Laying down rags to cover the floor can make the difference, preventing oil from getting into any unwanted spaces. If you’re expecting a pre-oiled bespoke wooden worktop, you will need 2-6 even coats on the top of the worktop. If you’re expecting an un-oiled bespoke wooden worktop, you will be 8 evenly spread coats on all sides.

4. If your worktop is un-oiled:

Turn the worktop so it’s facing down. A small amount of oil for the edges to begin with is all you need. If you don’t do this, then any drip marks will show later on.  Once the edges have been oiled you’re then ready for the first coat. Using plenty of oil on the underside, work it gently around the worktop. Go with a steady firm hand, if you’re being too rough it may cause ripples and may run. Once completed, turn over immediately. The oil way slightly run and may cause it to drip, but along as you’ve got the something covering the underneath of the worktop and old clothes it should be all dandy. Repeat again, only this time with a little more oil. You are then ready to oil the top. You need to cover the entire top, but without excess ensure that it doesn’t run or drip and repeat the previous. Leave it to set for 15 – 20 minutes, and with a fresh clean cloth, wipe off the excess. Do not worry about the amount of oil that comes off, what you are after is a thin layer across the worktop. Our worktops can absorb oil better than mass produced wooden worktops, as we only dry our worktops roughly 8 percent.

5. Depending on the temperature of the storage room will depend how long you leave the worktop to dry. The minimal being 30 minutes. Do not try and oil it again, until it has felt dry for several hours. The oil that we supply does not just dry, it hardens; if you do try to quickly oil it when it has not hardened, you will have to wait longer for it to dry. The remaining coats are just the same except from you do not have to worry about runs, once finished leave for a little longer.

6. If your worktop is pre-oiled then this is not applicable:

Again, once properly dry re-sand the top of worktop. The sanding will have to be done by hand, so that it has a better gentler touch, using an electric sander will remove any oil that has been placed on the worktop. An 180 grit will be needed first, using this you need to move with the grain to create a smooth surface between the layers of oil, If the grain appears slightly raised, do not be alarmed it will not affect the outcome of the worktop.  This is entirely normal and to be expected. It is just the way the timber reacts with the oil. The main concerns are to smooth out the over hangs and runs (if any).

7. Do not leave the worktop face down when wet. You can do it if you have to but not for long, then wipe the oil again. If you leave it there, it will mark and take longer to dry. You will need to repeat this to your relevance, then we recommend you use a 240 grit or finer and repeat as previous. Just remember, you are not aiming to take a lot off, just to make the worktop smooth.

8. When you have all required coats are on and dried on your wooden worktop, it is then ready for fitting. There are two alternatives; you can do this before you cut the worktop to size if you want. Although the consequences may include rubbing against the equipment you use to cut you bespoke wooden worktop. If you follow through with this method we suggest that you use low tack masking tape. Any end cuts that have been freshly cut will then need re-oiling, and logically we suggest an appropriate sharp tool for cutting within reason.

9. The other alternative is to have your worktop already measured out and send via email to Norfolk Oak’s admin; where we can then draw up a CAD and made just ready for installation soon as your delivery date.

10. Once the worktops have been fitted, they may need additional coats on the top surface to make a really good finish. You can use the worktop; just stay clear of hot appliances as it could damage the coat. A coat a day and if it feels a little bit rough then a gentle hand sand with 320 grit or finer is recommended. Once 12 layers on and they have settled, you have a properly functioning worktop.